In the mix of 90s revivals, a surprising phoenix were the shell necklaces and the radically printed fabrics of Hawaiian sunrises and ripe and juicy fruits from that tropical paradise. They licked the crest of shorts and wide leg trousers (more on these in a bit) like water on a shallow beach. Cerutti, Ami, Sandro and SS World Corp all stormed these vibrant freaks. But when Louis Vuitton blazed florals with a gauze overlay in Paris our heartstrings strummed a Drake song to the sound of a ukulele.
Neon streaks and splatters that gossip a neo orgy are wickedly in fashion, but you know that the retro wave is here to stay when the all whites hit the ramp. In Paris, we spotted Greek God sandals and leather slippers. The streets of Florence and Milan neared third world sweltering from their usual first world balmy with the all white brigade seeming quite literally the coolest of the lot. Billionaire Xander Zhou and Officine Generale rocked, rolled and steam-pressed the whites. But if monochrome is too risque for you, try pairing brown or black leather sandals or loafers with your trousers or a smart blazer in charcoal, indigo or navy blue. And don’t forget, white and minimal go very very well together.
Wide leg pants
This might have seemed like a courageous undertaking a year ago, but wide pants are getting closer and closer to the mainstream. The Oxford Bags, as they were called, originated when there was a ban on students wearing knickers. These pants let them do so undetected. For the love of knickers! Givenchy loves them. Jude Law sports them. And, at the most innovative show, by an up-and-coming ACNE studios, where we were walking the ramps, while the models sat court-side to deliver the occasional clap, we spotted these ultra wide blokes paired with tucked in scoop necked vests. And when The Saint (Laurent you toosh) withdrew support for slim fits, we knew that the blood constrictors are finally dead. The brave shall sport and the sheep shall follow.
London Fashion Week embraced denims like it were a hamper of matcha tea. Martine Rose and Oliver Spencer shared loose 70s style denims in a mid-wash blue, deviating heavily from the heavy distress and fades of the past so many years. We think that this is the year that clean looking denims will mark a famous return in loose fits (by which we don’t mean the anti-fit monstrosity). Why? Because (don’t scream sacrilege just yet!) even Craig Green abandoned quilting and shared a pair of blues.
The only pattern/print in a year of fashion weeks focusing on primary colours and block prints, was the vertical stripe. In London, E Tautz blew our minds with a navy pin-striped safari jacket, Songzio went thick on their suits, while Qasimi’s blouson broke it in ways you wouldn’t believe. In Milan, Versace blessed his clothes with a shower of striped rainfall that stuck to his pastel pink and blues, and Medusa’s silk shirts. The thinning effect of stripes is well acknowledged, so celebrate all ye who are obese and have a friend’s wedding coming up next year.