For many designers and creative directors of the world’s biggest fashion maisons, Spring Summer 2019 collections meant sketching nostalgic renditions of a past era, dipping into childhood memories, and surfacing with geometric patterns, floral prints, colourful nature’s motifs, and the logo mania that was so pervasive in the '90s.
In fact, the 1990s have been a big reference for Spring Summer 2019, whether it’s the return of the retro tennis sneakers or basketball hightop, the fisherman’s hat, or even trace elements of the '70s (everyone knows that the '90s in fact, harked back to the '70s — the decade of frivolous colours, louche cuts, flamboyant patterns, and male insouciance), and the biggest maisons have played along. While sport and athleisure remains a big influence — it’s a concept that has reached its apogee, if you compare it with its ubiquitous presence on Spring Summer 2018 ramps — it’s really a phantasmagoric display of the print factory that has caught the eyeballs.
Jonathan Anderson at Loewe took snippets of a Bohemian life — with a very '70s styling, complete with cowrie shells, rainbow sweaters, snake print motifs and a very playful vibe. Versace, never one to shy away from colour, bold prints, and outré styling, added bold logos, V shapes, and the maison’s lettering to oversized tees, shirts, jackets, and sweatpants, adding a sporty dimension. Versace also combined flower prints — a lot of poppies could be spotted — in shorts/shirts combos, finished with the accessory du jour, the small man bag — in what else but '90s neon.
Valentino bought into the logo mania with cropped pants, oversized shirts, and parkas boldly emblazoned with the maison’s name — and paired (or should we say clashed) with animal prints, florals, geometrics, and even jungle prints.
Alessandro Michele who can be credited with the stratospheric rise of Italian maison Gucci, making vintage look oh-so-cool, dipped into his favourite decade, with a show straight outta the past, an old theatre in Montmartre that housed a very popular dance club. Dolce & Gabbana stuck to its guns with plenty of satin, kimono belted jackets, but also athletic tracksuits emblazoned with logos and prints. The fondness for '90s mixed patterns on sweatshirts was clearly visible, with slightly oversized silhouettes and billowing sleeves. Again, colour is never lost on Stefano and Domenico, as they sent beautiful printed silks in the kind of stunning mismatch that only they can pull off.
The season of the confident, colourful male is very much back. It’s all about a play — of patterns, textures, colours, and the omnipresent logo. Being coy is out of fashion.
IF YOU CAN DREAM IT
American luxury leather goods manufacturer Coach has just announced the launch of the ‘Dream it Real’ podcast, a weekly conversation with Gen Next on how they envision and create their dream of the future, hosted by writer Heben Nigatu, with iconic chanteuse Selena Gomez, actor and global face of Coach menswear Michael B Jordan, and GoT star Maisie Williams. The series is released on Wednesdays and is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcasts and other channels.
BOYS TO MEN
On the occasion of Korean boy band BTS’s world tour, entitled Love Yourself: Speak Yourself, Kim Jones, Artistic Director, Dior menswear, created an ensemble of seven looks inspired by his pre-fall 2019 collection. Reflecting the modernity of Kim Jones’ creations, the silhouettes are inspired by each of the members. “Each member of the group chose the look they wanted and we worked very organically to create each look for them,” says Kim Jones.