"Anil Kapoor can carry a classic suit really well, just the way it should be. It resonates his impeccable regal style. It’s truly timeless"
Dhruv Vaish (www.dhruvvaish.com; @dhruvvaish)
Who inspired you to get into the tailoring business?
I inherited into this business technically! My grandfather started out as a small store about eight decades ago. Fortunately, I was passionate about it, though my vision was slightly different. I started my own line, focusing at taking tailoring to a new height with the addition of cutting-edge designs.
Do you think Indian designers need to learn from Italian craftsmanship?
I think there’s a lot to learn and emulate. But there is also immense talent here which needs to be channelised.
Other than Anil Kapoor, which other actor you think pulls off a suit well?
For a modern edgy look, Ayushmann Khurrana is an ideal candidate. The way he puts it together is just right and makes any look effortless. He has the right body language that balances a fine suit, making it experimental and fun.
What is the future of tailoring?
Good fine tailoring is becoming more niche than ever due to the rising costs but at the same time the younger generation is also becoming more aware and appreciative of a fine tailored suit. We are constantly working on training more workers to produce the highest quality and to be able to meet the growing demands.
What are the colours and fabrics you like to pick while making a suit?
I love good pure blends of wool and cottons. While woollen fabrics are always a tailor’s delight, cotton adds to very interesting texture and fall. There are so many great new blends of these two being developed these days. I like picking different shades of blues and browns for my suits. These colours, unlike black, always bring out the details we use in our garments. Plus, they are also not too overpowering at the same time.
Do you think men are now more open to playing with newer cuts and silhouettes?
We have many loyal patrons who wait to for the new cuts and silhouettes we keep developing. They are the ones who keep us going in our endeavour to keep pushing the boundaries.
"Suits are evolving in India and youngsters, in particular, are ready to experiment with bold prints in suits and tuxedos"
Sahil Aneja (www.sahilaneja.com; @sahilaneja)
Tell us about the different fabrics you work with for a suit
I work a lot with worsted wool, cotton velvet, jacquard, linen etc.
Do you think we are yet to find the versatility of suits?
I think we have come a long way when it comes to versatility in terms of suits. We see more people willing to experiment with different styles and prints as compared to how it was a few years ago. However, there is still a long road ahead.
What is your personal taste when it comes to suits: is it more formal or casual and laidback?
I say it is fine tailoring with a twist of quirk and a hint of colour pop detail.
You are known for experimenting with different prints. Which print is your favourite?
My favourite print so far has to be the black and white ikat print suit that we have made. The fabric itself is quite unique and it resonates with our values as a brand.
Tell us about one fashion faux pas men make with suits?
Body type matters a lot. Everybody should be mindful of it before deciding to go with bold checks or prints etc. Many follow a trend just because it is in. Instead, choose a look, print etc that suits your body type. For instance, if you are short, you shouldn’t opt for bold checks.
Do you think most men are still scared of experimenting with silhouettes?
I won’t say scared exactly. The correct word would be safe. With the ongoing impact of social media, movie stars and fashion influencers, men are getting the right exposure and reach to identify their style and are open to experimenting a lot more than they used to in the past. Suits are evolving in India and younger guys, in particular, are ready to experiment with bold prints in suits and tuxedos.
What is the future of tailoring in India?
I can safely say that a well-constructed suit with fine detailing and playfulness (which is the core DNA of our brand) is the future for at least a Sahil Aneja man.
"A well-dressed man is comfortable in what he’s wearing. it doesn’t matter if it’s a bold colour, quirky print or fluid cuts"
Gaurav Khanijo (www.khanijo.com; @khanijo)
You are among the pioneers of sustainable fashion. How do you strike a balance between making your garments look luxe and understated?
“Sustainable fashion” is an over-rated term but still essential to understand it relatively. What matters to me is to design clothing that doesn’t leave a dent in nature, (although we try our best in our limits) by using natural fibres from hemp, bamboo, linen, wool, khadi, silk. For now, 2/3rd of this is made on handlooms in India and rest from other countries. Luxe comes from our textiles, and understated is my mood for menswear.
Who, according to you, is a well-dressed man?
This man shows confidence, whether he’s wearing well-cut pants and shirt for work or goes with shorts and T-shirt. Our clothes reflect our state of mind, exposure, and sense of mood. A well-dressed man is comfortable in what he’s wearing, and it doesn’t matter if it’s a bold colour, quirky print or fluid cuts. He knows how to carry it with poise.
How has menswear scene changed over the years since you started your label?
Men are no more on the backseat when it comes to their clothes. The ones who’d let women in their lives pick for them are now more aware of their choices. I think it’s because of more digital exposure now. We still like to get second opinion from our folks, because shopping is sharing energies, it’s a lovely feeling.
Do you think men are willing to experiment now when it comes to different silhouettes?
Yes, of course they simply need a better reason to. Now that there are more brands available and accessible, you can see the shift. As long they’re experimenting with colours and textures, cuts always follow. It’s also very personal, depending on different body types.
Your biggest fashion pet peeve?
At the moment its social media fashion victims putting nothing, anything or everything together in the name of fashion. There is no good reason to wear uncomfortable clothing, ever.
"Bold statement colours are in demand now compared to the subtle soft hues preferred before"
Pawan Sachdeva (www.pawansachdevahomme.com; @pawansachdeva22)
What according to you defines new age dressing for men?
For me, new age dressing for men is about comfortable clothing with edgy cuts and silhouettes.
How has your brand evolved with time in catering to the newer demands in the menswear segment?
A lot has changed in fashion from what it was 20 years ago. Category defining fashion has now shifted to unisex genderless clothing; bold statement colours are in demand as compared to the subtle soft hues preferred before.
How would you describe a well-dressed man?
For me, he has a taste of both, style and minimalism.
What colours do you usually prefer while making a suit?
Hues of blue such as dark navy and midnight blue along with shades like black, charcoal and grey are usually preferred in suits for formal corporate and business meetings.
How challenging does it gets for a designer to continue reinventing its brand’s aesthetic season after season?
It is always very challenging to be updated about the likes and demands in fashion amongst your consumers. With a constant change in Fashion, I believe in keeping a minimalistic approach in design by balancing cuts and bringing edgy looks.
Tell us about some newer cuts and style in suits for 2021.
This year it is going to be about muted colours with sporty, relaxed and comfortable clothing.
Who is your favourite fashion icon among men?
In India, people mostly look up to Bollywood for style and fashion. I believe Saif Ali Khan does complete justice to defining style and fashion in India.
"A suit is incomplete with accessories, but it shouldn’t be overdone at the same time"
Karrtik Dhingra (www.karrtikd.com; @karrtikd)
How would you define the new-age suit?
The fit and tailoring has to be impeccable. If it’s an anti-fit, it should be stitched in a way that it flatters a man’s physique. The detailing has to be minimal yet catchy.
You do a lot of colour-blocked suits. How commercially successful are they?
Colour-blocked suits are hot-sellers for us. When I started making these, there were only a few takers for it but eventually it became synonymous with the brand’s core aesthetic and people began to appreciate the designs.
What are the newer trends in suits for spring/summer 2021?
We are going to see a lot of prints this season with tie-dye being one of the most sought-after prints this summer. A tie-dye tuxedo can be great idea for the coming season.
One of your favourite creation’s worn by a celebrity
Ranveer Singh wore our suit which had Bollywood’s iconic film posters printed on it. Only he could have been able to pull off this look.
What’s your personal style when it comes to picking a suit?
It has to be experimental yet carry that classic vibe. I like to experiment with the label and also the hemline of the blazer.
How important it is to accessorise the suit?
A suit is incomplete with accessories, but it shouldn’t be overdone at the same time.There has been a sudden rise in menswear jewellery pieces which look fabulous when paired with suits.
How often should one go for made-to-measure or off the rack suit?
If you are able to find the right fabric, then is better to go for off the rack suits since you also try the fit in advance. Made to measure is certainly for those men who are very particular about their suit silhouette, fabric and style.
Location: Roseate House, Aerocity, Delhi
Styling assistants: Essha Gera, Robertson Thiyam
Make-up & Hair: Suhansh Petwal