After the COVID-19 pandemic made the world come to a standstill and turned every event into a digital one for almost two years, it was time to welcome the phydigital edition of Watches & Wonders, Geneva, Switzerland. Horology's biggest event saw watchmakers bring their A-game, apart from attendance by South African-born Swiss explorer Mike Horn, seven-time F1 championship winner Lewis Hamilton, and Oscar-winning music composer Hans Zimmer. Inspite of this, it was the watches that stole the spotlight. Here are the timepieces that stood out for their craftsmanship, innovation, and technical excellence.
TAG Heuer Carrera x Porsche Limited Edition
Rs5.8 lakh (approximately)
For over five decades, TAG Heuer and Porsche have collaborated to create limited edition timepieces. The latest one, the TAG Heuer Carrera x Porsche Limited Edition is a 44mm watch of which only 1,500 pieces will be made. The chronograph features a black ceramic tachymeter fixed bezel with the Porsche logo and a black DLC steel case. At 3 o'clock, the watch gets a 30-minute counter, at 6 o'clock the watch features a seconds indicator, and 9 o'clock gets the hour counter. The watch gets a black shimmery dial with a black DLC steel screw-down sapphire caseback with a rotor and individual number of the watch. Powering the watch is the Calibre HEUER 02 Automatic movement with 80 hours of power reserve through a column wheel and a vertical clutch. Completing the watch is a textile textured black calf skin strap with yellow stitchings and racing yellow lining.
H. Moser & CIE. Cylindrical Tourbillon
Rs7.9 crore (approximately)
The watchmaker has taken an adventurous route in creating the cylindrical tourbillon Ref 3811-1200. The skeleton dial showcases the HMC 811 three-dimensional manufacture calibre, with the 42.8mm watch’s one-minute flying tourbillon with a cylindrical hairspring at 6 o'clock. At 12 o'clock, the timepiece gets the main fumé domed sub-dial with sunburst pattern with Globolight inserted hour and minute hands. Turning the watch over reveals the skeleton caseback with a rose gold rotor. It is powered by the HMC 811, self-winding movement with 74 hours of power reserve and 3Hz frequency. Completing the watch is a black alligator leather strap.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton
Rs1 crore (approximately)
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton comes in two variants — an 18K 5N pink gold (Ref 6000V/110R-B934) and a grade 5 titanium (Ref 6000V/110T-B935). The titanium model is the first of its kind to have the crown, bezel, case, and bracelet made of the same metal. The skeleton dial on the self-winding calibre 2160 is light and just 5.65mm thick, and the tourbillon cage at 6 o'clock incorporates the Maltese Cross design. The hour markers, hour, and minute hands either are made in white gold or pink gold with a transparent sapphire caseback. Additional straps are made in black or blue calf skin leather or black or blue rubber.
Also read: Futuristic watches: Going the distance
Hermes Arceau Temps Voyageur
Rs22 lakh (approximately)
At first glance, Hermes' Arceau Temps Voyageur seems like a worldtimer, but it is actually a dual-time watch. On the peripheral ring of cities, one’s hometown can be chosen via a pusher at 9 o’clock, which makes the red arrow affixed to the dial disc move; the corresponding time is displayed in a window at 12 o’clock. Local time can be set via the crown. The watch is available in two variants — a 41 mm platinum version with a matt black DLC-treated titanium bezel and a 38mm steel model. The galvanised dial is combined with light grey or blue colour with continent names and contours. Powering the watch is Hermès H1837 movement with 40 hours of power reserve. The grey dial watch gets matte graphite alligator strap or a black Barénia calfskin strap, while the blue dial watch gets a smooth sapphire blue alligator strap or a navy blue Swift calfskin strap.
Cartier Masse Mysterieuse
Rs2.1 crore (approximately)
Limited to just 30 pieces, the mystery of this 43.5mm watch lies in the fact that the whole movement, the 9801MC automatic movement, is built inside the skeletonised oscillating weight, which is placed at the centre of the see-through dial. There are six sapphire discs with different functions — two on the case, and four that rotate. The two on the case are the upper crystal and the caseback, while the four discs include one for the hour hand, one for the minute, another that surrounds the rotor and the final one that holds the fixed wheel around the movement. The watch features a 950 platinum case with Roman hour markers, with the crown featuring a polished ruby cabochon. This limited edition watch delivers a 42-hour power reserve and a 4Hz frequency. Completing the watch is a semi-matte dark grey and black alligator leather straps
A Lange & Söhne Odysseus in Titanium
Rs43.3 lakh (approximately)
Capitalising on the popularity of sport watches with integrated bracelets, A Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus, the brand’s first watch in titanium, features large day (9 o'clock) and date (3 o'clock) windows, whose details can be adjusted with the help of tapered buttons. Limited to just 250 pieces, the 40.5mm titanium watch features a brass ice-blue dial with white gold, baton hour and minute hands and a guilloched hour ring. The small seconds rests at 6 o’clock, and the caseback gets an engraving of the individual number of the watch and a visible unidirectional black-rhodiumed central rotor. The watch is powered by an in-house L155.1 Datomatic self-winding movement with 50 hours of power reserve and 4Hz frequency. It is completed on a titanium bracelet with a safety deployant buckle.
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition ‘Lake Tahoe’
Price on request
The new Top Gun chronographs launched by IWC Schaffhausen now comes in two different coloured ceramics, including Ref IW389105, a muted white ceramic edition called Lake Tahoe, a freshwater lake in the Sierra Nevada Mountains known for its beaches and ski resorts. IWC partnered with the international colour forecasting agency Pantone to create new reference colour. The striking 44.5mm watch gets a black dial with stainless steel screw-down crown and chronograph pushers. At 12 o'clock rests the 30-minute subdial, 9 o'clock gets the 12-hour subdial, and 6 o'clock getting the small seconds sub-dial. The watches get Arabic hour markers while 12 o'clock gets a triangle hour marker and 6 o'clock getting a bar shaped hour marker. IWC logo sits at 3 o'clock along with date and day window. Powering Lake Tahoe is the Calibre 69380 movement with 46 hours of power reserve and 4Hz frequency. Completing the watches is a white rubber strap with textile inlay.
Price on request
Rolex is known to upgrade its models routinely, and this year the Air-King had its turn. The 40mm Ref 126900 with a black lacquer dial now features white Arabic hour markers with '3', '6', and '9' in white gold, with the rest in a pilot-style painted numerals (there is a ‘05’ where 5 was). The new case design comes exclusively with crown guards and a polished bezel, and the bracelet is broader at the lugs. The hour and minute hands are made in 18K white gold with a green lacquer seconds hand, and the watch has a monobloc middle case and a screw-down caseback giving it a 100 metres water resistance. The watch is powered by the automatic Calibre 3230 mechanical movement giving it 70 hours of power reserve and 4Hz frequency.
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Bianco
Rs7,1 lakh (approximately)
With a focus on the 44mm size, Panerai unveiled a new Submersible in a striking dial-strap combination. The PAM01226 gets a white dial with a caoutchouc military green strap composed of 68 per cent recycled fabric material. Cased in brushed steel, the watch comes with 300 metre water resistance, and has an anti-clockwise rotating bezel made of brushed steel too. With a date window at 3 o’clock, a small seconds counter at 9 o’clock, the watch features the locked crown protection. Powering the watch is an automatic mechanical, P.900 caliber movement delivering 72 hours of power reserve and 4hz frequency.
Chopard Strike One
Rs50 lakh (approximately)
Launched in 2016, the L.U.C Full Strike was Chopard's first minute repeater. In 2018, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President, Chopard, took inspiration from violinist Renaud Capuçon to make this minute repeater as a musical instrument. Now, the new Chopard Strike One is a 25-piece 18K rose gold limited edition watch that comes with a monobloc sapphire gong. A laboratory at Geneva's HEPIA engineering school that has an isolated noise pollution chamber has acknowledged that the sound of Chopard's minute repeater is powerful, harmonious, and crystal clear due to this sapphire gong. This 40mm Ref. 161949-5001 watch features a grey honeycomb dial pattern at the centre with gilded herringbone-type hour-markers with gilded dauphine fusée-type hours and minutes hands. This watch comes with a small seconds at 6 o'clock, and a chime/silence aperture at 12 o’clock. The watch is powered by L.U.C 96.32-L mechanical self winding movement with a 65 hour power reserve and a 4hz frequency. The watch is completed on a grey alligator leather strap with grey alligator lining.
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon
Rs2.6 crore (approximately)
The 20-piece limited edition Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon is the first watch from Grand Seiko to get a constant-force mechanism and a tourbillon as single unit on a single axis for the very first time in horological history. Grand Seiko took almost a decade to perfectly execute the impossible. Since, the watch has got no mechanisms between the tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism, there is no change in torque transmission from the constant-force mechanism to the balance wheel. This gives the constant force an increase in duration of 50 hours and a more stable balanced wheel. The 35mm Ref SLGT003 watch gets a platinum 950 and brilliant hard titanium case. The tourbillon movement is placed at 6 o'clock and the dial at 12 o'clock with bar shaped hour markers and needle shaped hour and minute hands. Powering the watch is the manual winding Caliber 9ST1, delivering a 72 hour power reserve. The watch is completed on a calf strap with a platinum 950 folding clasp and a push button release system. The watch also comes with an additional double-sided crocodile strap.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier
Price on request
In a quest to achieve better performance and precision, Roger Dubuis has upped the technical ante of the Excaliber Monobalancier, with a new RD 720SQ calibre with 72 hours of power reserve, and a micro-rotor made from pink gold optimised to minimise vibrations. The brand has managed to double the balance wheel inertia of this watch to improve stability and to achieve better efficiency, just like the shape of the escapement wheel, now made of diamond coated silicon, has been optimised. The watch gets a fluted bezel and sharp notches with the signature star placed above the barrel. This 42mm Eon GoldTM (750/1000 5N gold alloy that is more resistant to tarnishing) watch comes with satin-brushed surfaced and polished angles, with the skeleton dial featuring 'V' shaped hour markers with two golden markers for minutes and hour hands.
Hublot Square Bang Unico
Rs18.3 lakh onwards (approximately)
Adding a new case design to its portfolio of pieces, the square, Hublot released five iterations of the Square Bang Unico. The collection ranges from a 250-piece limited edition collector's version of all-black ceramic to a titanium, a titanium ceramic, a King Gold, and a King Gold ceramic versions. The 42mm watches come with six screws on the case, a column wheel at 6 o'clock, and a minutes subdial at 9 o'clock, and a small seconds at 3 o'clock. The skeleton dial gets dual bar shaped hour markers at 12 o’clock. The watches are powered by the HUB1280 UNICO Manufacture self-winding chronograph flyback movement, delivering a 72-hour power reserve. The watches are completed on black structured rubber straps with a black ceramic and black titanium buckle.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante
Rs2 lakh (approximately)
Combining horological prowess with minimalist aesthetics, this 40mm watch with a finely knurled bezel and Grain d’Orge guilloché pattern dial is a dual time watch. Featuring two hour hands, the pusher at 8 o'clock causes the upper rhodium-plated, delta-shaped gold hand (local time) to jump forward in hour increments, revealing a rose gold hand to display the wearer's home time. If the second timezone information is not required, pressing the crown's rose gold button repositions the rhodium plated hand. The stainless watch is powered by PF051 automatic winding movement, delivering 48 hours of power reserve and 3Hz frequency.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 Galaxia
Rs4.1 crore (approximately)
The Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 Galaxia in pink gold is a limited edition of only five pieces, featuring a sky chart, a calendar, a minute repeater, and a celestial flying tourbillon, the Cosmotourbillon. The centre of the dial features what the brand calls the ‘celestial vault’ or sky chart – it shows, in real time, the constellations in the Northern Hemisphere night sky as seen from the 46th parallel, the latitude of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s home in the Vallée de Joux. Moving outward from this part of the dial, one encounters the Cosmotourbillon, which, taking into account sidereal time (a sidereal day is defined by Earth’s rotation measured in relation to more distant fixed stars – it is 23 hours, 56 minutes, and 4.1 seconds) completes one rotation around the dial in an anti-clockwise direction. To this mix, Jaeger-LeCoultre has even added a minute repeater, the tapered slide to activate it on the left of the case.
Montblanc 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow LE88
Rs22 lakh (approximately)
In 1927, the Villeret-based Minerva manufacture, a renowned name in aviation watches, made a fluted bezel and an internal countdown rotating bezel. In 1939, the watchmaker created a wrist chronograph with an external rotating bezel and reset function. With Minerva manufacture providing its wealth of expertise to Montblanc since 2006, for the year 2022, Montblanc has unveiled the 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow (Ref. MB129614), a watch that incorporates both the aforementioned elements. With an 18K white gold fluted bezel the 42mm stainless steel watch features a black dial with a telemeter scale on the periphery and a tachymeter at the centre; there is also a red arrow honouring the Roman Goddess Minerva that tracks the elapsed time placed above 12 o'clock. The watch has a 30-minute subdial at 3 o’clock and a seconds subdial 9 o’clock, with Arabic hour markers. Powered by the in-house, handwound Calibre MB M13.21 movement with 60 hours of power reserve, the watch is completed on a semi-matte black alligator leather strap.
Tudor Black Bay Pro
Rs3 lakh (approximately)
The 39mm stainless steel Black Bay Pro Ref 79470 has a fixed steel bezel with a GMT function. The main highlight of this watch is the fact that it has a dual time zone feature that shows the local and home time with its yellow 24-hour ‘Snowflake’ hand, which completes a rotation every 24 hours. Local time is indicated by a shorter hour hand that can be moved both forward and backwards. The watch has a date window at 3 o'clock with eight dotted hour markers, two bar hour markers for 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock, while 12 o'clock gets a triangular hour marker. The watch is powered by Calibre MT5652 self winding mechanical movement delivering 70 hours of power reserve and 4Hz frequency. The watch is completed on a stainless steel bracelet.
Ressence Type 8
Rs10 lakh (approximately)
Since Ressence debuted in 2010, the brand has been known to push the limits of horology with its patented Ressence Orbital Convex System that facilitates a novel reading of time along with a fascinating dial design. The latest from the mind of founder Benoît Mintiens is the Type 8 (the watches are named after the Fibonacci sequence), a timepiece that weighs just 42gms due to its grade 5 titanium case, and is the brand’s entry level watch. This 42.9mm watch comes with a domed sapphire crystal, with the cobalt blue dial looks stunning under natural light. The watch is powered by self winding calibre 2892/2 Ressence Orbital Convex System that delivers a power reserve of 36 hours and has a 4Hz frequency. Completing the look of the watch is a blue leather strap coupled with a polished ardillon buckle in grade 5 titanium.
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time
Rs51 lakh (approximately)
This watch represents for the first time that Patek Philippe has combined two of its iconic complications - the Annual Calendar (that requires a manual correction only once a year) and the Travel Time system for the display of a second time zone - in one watch, the Ref. 5326G . This travel watch's date display is in sync with the local time and adjusts the date when time zone is changed. The timepiece has a granular, charcoal gray dial with 18K white gold numerals with syringe hands. The moonphase sits at 6 o'clock, with a date window below it. Patek Philippe logo sits at 12 o'clock, with the day and month window. The watch is powered by Caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement with 38 hours and maximum 48 hours of power reserve. The watch is completed on a calfskin strap with nubuck finish with an additional calfskin strap with embossed textile pattern.